Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Apparently the correct spelling of the French word for thumb is p-o-u-c-e

Who knew? I mean, besides every French speaker in the world, who knew?

We've been to lots of museums, we've been to lots of historic sites. Today we started out at Michaud's. Actually, this current establishment is far from being anything significant but in the 1920s when Hemingway came to town this was the location of Michaud's, one of the most exclusive and elite restaurants in Paris. Early in his first stay in Paris a nearly penniless Hemingway pressed his nose against the windows of this restaurant to watch James Joyce and his family have dinner. Hemingway knew who Joyce was, Hemingway was only on his way to being Hemingway. At that point he was just a man at the window.The place is also notable as the location of the famous Hemingway-Fitzgerald encounter described by Hemingway in "A Movable Feast". Fitzgerald confided in Hemingway that Zelda thought his penis was too small and asked Ernest to take a look at it. Hemingway's story is that they went in the loo and Ernest assured Scott that there was nothing wrong with his willy. I didn't make this up, you can read it in Hemingway's book.

Next door is the former site of the Hotel d'York. In 1783, David Hartley, a representative of the King of England met here with Benjamin Franklin, John Jay and John Adams representing the brand new United States of America and signed the treaty of peace ending the American Revolutionary War and formally recognizing the existence of the United States. This seems like one of the most important events in the history of the United States and all it gets is an obscure sign (in French) on the exterior of a nondescript building in Paris.It occurred to me that after the big build up I was a little short of pictures of old stone churches. Here's one, the Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Pres, the oldest church in Paris.Most of the church dates from from the 11th century. It was built on the site of a 6th century abbey. Part of the original abbey, including the final resting place of Saint Germanus, the first bishop of Paris, is still part of the building. Saint Germanus died in 576. The bell tower has changed very little since 990. The church was the dominant church in Paris until the advent of Notre Dame.

Next up was Eglise Saint-Sulpice. The church is undergoing major renovation and even though I got a couple of pictures, I decided that none of them deserved publishing. However, I did get this shot of the Fontaine des Quatre Eveques (Fountain of the Four Bishops) from the square in front of the church. It isn't as old as the church but today it was much more photogenic.This is the Fontaine de Medicis on the grounds of the Palais du Luxembourg. The palace was built beginning in 1615 by Marie de Medici, queen consort and widow of Henry IV. As the mother of the future king Louis XIII she was regent of France. Marie was Italian and the palace and fountain are in an Italianate style to ease her longing for her home.This is the palace as seen from the Jardin du Luxembourg. The palace is currently the home of the French Senat. The Garden is one of the greatest public parks ever seen by any of the remaining members of the traveling party. We agree it is one of the best parks any of us have ever been in.The garden includes six public tennis courts. One member of the traveling party is feeling a little out of sorts after having spent one of the longer periods of at least his recent life without having been actually on a tennis court. He welcomed the opportunity to walk out onto the court even if this appearance was made in the absence of any actual tennis equipment.Here is the original model for the Statue of Liberty, obtained from the sculptor by the government of France and placed in these gardens.This is Eglise du Dome.It is the site of the sarcophagus containing the remains of Napoleon.And so it appears that the last image from Paris shall be Napoleonic. That's OK with me, the reminders of his life and his reign as Emperor are everywhere in this city and it seems an appropriate way to sign off.

I promise that before the end of the week there will be a bicycle post, probably something including the current sights, whatever they might be, from the State Fairgrounds.

Au revoir, Paris.

2 comments:

Santini said...

Can't imagine a better way to end your trip. Have a safe journey home.

Anonymous said...

Oh, the fountain in the garden!

Really, ending with a dead guy's remains? Kinda dismal, but appropriate. I'm wistful for the city already and haven't even been there. Bon Voyage.

jilrubia