The tapestry and other delights

Four days in Normandy and not a cloud in the sky.  We were in a souvenir shop this morning and they had an entire rack of joke postcards many of which spoofed Norman weather and what is apparently perceived to be near constant rain.  We had a very similar experience several years ago in Seattle.  Everyone says it rains there but it rained not a drop while we were there.  If it does actually rain in Normandy you couldn't prove it by the experience we have had, not a single cloud in the sky, not a cumulus, not a high cirrus, not anything at all.  Sky blue all day long.  It has been gorgeous.

We are staying in the Hôtel d'Argouges which is a hotel in the American usage of the word. We do not have the spectacular view that we had in the B&B but here the petit dejeuner is included in the price of the room (That's right, we stayed in a BED AND BREAKFAST where the breakfast was extra and we are now in a HOTEL where the breakfast is included). Additionally, when the weather is perfect, as it was today, it is possible to enjoy the petit dejeuner in the hotel garden.

So that kind of makes up for the lack of a window view.

We set out on foot for a day (a relief) to investigate the things in Bayeux that we had only driven and walked briskly past.

The Grand Rue, the main street of this town has been the same street since the very earliest days of the town. We walked down into Old Town where we encountered lots of picturesque old houses.

For example, this is the Hôtel d'Argouges, when hôtel is used in the more usual French usage of the word. This 15th century building was the main residence of Lord Argouges at a time when he was sufficiently wealthy and politically prominent to entertain the king in his home.

The hotel where we are staying was also owned by the family and therefore rates the designation as Hôtel d'Argouges, it just wasn't the family primary residence.

Besides the hotel (American usage) has a lovely garden. Le Hôtel (French usage) just has a plaque saying the king once visited there.

There are lots of other interesting old buildings, this one is an example of a typical 15th century turreted manor house.

All of the floors of the house were accessed from a stairway in the turret. The stairway is capped by the turret which could also be used as a lookout.

This is another example of a half timbered house along the main street, complete with the quite usual overhanging upper stories.  This one is on about a dozen of the non-joke postcards we saw in the souvenir shop.

It was on to the Tapestry.  It is, as advertised, quite extraordinary.  It is 70 meters in length, displayed in a darkened room in a former seminary building.  The Tapestry has quite a checkered past.  Napoleon removed it to Paris, the Germans removed it to Paris, during the Revolution it was used as a tarpaulin to cover a load of weapons bound for Paris only to be rescued by a local.  It has been in the seminary since 1984.

That's the panel where Harald takes the sacred Oath of Bayeux.  Harald had been sent by Edward the Confessor, the King of England to inform William the Bastard that the childless Edward was designating William as his successor.  Harald was shipwrecked and taken prisoner by a local count.  Freed by William, Harald swore on saintly relics to recognize William's right to the throne.  Harald returned to England, found that Edward had died and couldn't resist the opportunity.  He reneged on his oath and had himself installed as King.  William was provoked to fight for his claim to the throne.  It all culminated in 1066 at Hastings and William the Bastard became for all time William the  Conqueror, King of England.

What I like most about the photo is that it once again demonstrates what you can do with a really good modern electronic camera.  No flash is allowed in that darkened room and I used the no flash setting.  The camera gathered the light that was available and produced an excellent exposure.

Try that with film, Luddites.

So I am now going to request a ruling by a French speaking person.  We left the Tapestry.  I was using the green guide at this point and there is a small map of Bayeux in there showing immediately adjacent to the Tapestry an "ancien moulins de l'hopital".  I went looking for the windmill.  Couldn't find one.  I did find this.

It appears to be a water wheel which was used to power most likely some sort of mill, perhaps a grist mill.

We looked around old town some more.  This is a 17th century house known as the Maison du Cadran because of the sundial on the facade.

I am having a little trouble reading the sundial but it was about 1pm when we were there. Maybe someone else can figure it out, I assume it is reasonably accurate but may not be adjusted for daylight savings time.

We did a big bunch of what one guide calls the 2.3 mile river walk.  The green guide gives a strong recommendation to this view from Quai de l'Aure.

The guide says that on turning into this street from rue des Teinturiers, one has a fine view of the river, the water mill in what was once the tanning district, the arched bridge, the old fish market and the towers of the cathedral in the background.

The old fish market has been reconfigured for use in the modern era as the city tourist information office.